Category: Celebrity (page 4 of 4)

Six-Word Memoirs

Originally published in the January 2017 issue of (614) Magazine

Sharing stories around a campfire is among our most enduring traditions. From the primitive survival tips of our earliest ancestors to complex cautionary tales of love and loss, language remains the common currency of the human experience. But now we have a bigger campfire, spreading light and heat to everyone within reach of a keyboard or constantly connected device we carry in our pockets. That’s where Larry Smith is in his element, helping strangers rediscover the ancient art of storytelling by distilling it down to six simple words.

The Six-Word Memoir project started as a stopgap solution for SMITH Magazine, an online rendezvous for writers that launched just as social media was redefining the rules for every internet interaction. Of course, it’s hard to foresee the future from ground level. But Smith somehow did, even as corporations and his contemporaries in what we call “old media” struggled to see over the obvious horizon. Never minding the naysayers, Six-Word Memoirs tapped into something deft, yet diminutive. From boardrooms to classrooms, suicide prevention to speed dating, the platform defied critics by effectively elevating kitsch to cause almost overnight.

After a decade of didactic self-disclosure, it would be easy to descend into diatribes about Marshall McLuhan, the medium is the message, and other pointy-headed punditry. Though there is merit in analyzing the mental mechanisms behind the movement, it was never intended as an indulgent, academic exercise. Nor are there the fading flames or faint flickers of a dying fire. The effort keeps evolving to reach unlikely audiences and amateur auteurs whose unspoken autobiographies offer an intimate perspective that pierces the darkness with a few soulful syllables.

Having settled in Columbus after several stints in hipper haunts, Larry Smith kicked back for coffee to reflect on ten years of Six Words — an idea that keeps reinventing itself.

“I’M SURE YOU’VE ANSWERED THIS BEFORE.”

You’re essentially a superhero of short-form storytelling. Yet some are still unfamiliar with the six-word concept. What was the inspiration? Tell me your origin story?

I love origin stories. When I’m introduced, it’s often just “This is Larry Smith of Six-Word Memoirs” and someone might say, “Oh, you’re that six-word guy?” I like superhero better. The origin story is a literary legend, which some of your readers may know. Ernest Hemingway was once challenged to write a six-word novel in a bar bet, where many literary legends begin. As the story goes, Hemingway wrote, “For sale: baby shoes, never worn.”

In January of 2006, I left a traditional journalism career working mostly in print magazines, but some web — Men’s Journal, ESPN Magazine, Dave Eggar’s Might, POV, Yahoo! Internet Life, which was like the people’s WIRED. I saw the user-generated content explosion coming as kind of the tech culture guy at all of these magazines.

Telling stories is hot, in almost an amusing way. It’s always been hot in film and television. But it’s hot in advertising now, because technology finally caught up with what we’ve always wanted to do. Telling stories, recording music, creating art — our ability to share these stories through Facebook, Twitter, and Six-Word Memoirs has become more easy, and addictive.

So I did something crazy and left a career I really enjoyed and I started SMITHMAG.net on January 6, 2006 on National Smith Day, which is one of those days you get if enough people sign a petition. But it was a good media hook. I launched a user-generated content magazine where anyone could tell a story. But Six-Word Memoirs wasn’t part of it.

“YOU’VE GOT TO BE KIDDING US?”

Online magazines were a tough sell back then, especially without some sort of parallel print product. How did your early partnership with Twitter propel Six-Word Memoirs into the popular culture?

Toward the end of the first year, people loved it — but it wasn’t a business. It wasn’t generating enough traffic. “Threw spaghetti at wall; some stuck.” is one of my favorite six-word memoirs, and that’s what I did. I remembered the Hemingway legend and thought, “What if we gave it a personal twist?”

So we Googled “six-word memoir” and nothing came up.

That was it — we called it “Six-Word Memoirs”. It was going to be a month-long contest and the best six-word story would win an iPod, which was a good prize back in 2006.  Right before we launched, I called up these guys I’d met at a tech conference with a side project called Twitter. This was when you could call Twitter and Jack Dorsey would answer the phone. We’d talked about doing a project with SMITH MAG and they thought it was great. So anyone could enter a story about any part of their lives, their whole life, an epitaph, how you’re feeling today, whatever. But if you wanted to win the iPod, you had to sign up for this funny little thing called Twitter. We crowd-sourced the decision to some interns and friends and the winner was, “Barrister, barista— what’s the diff, Mom?” from a Silicon Valley engineer named Abigail Moorhouse. The response was overwhelming. We were receiving tens of thousands of six-word memoirs — which at the time all came to my email box. Obviously now we curate it and built the site around it.

“SIX WORDS AREN’T REALLY SO SIMPLE.”

Between the ease of the app and the confines of the format, there’s a surprising amount of intimacy on the site, the kind that maybe gets lost or overlooked in social media platforms without that six-word limit. How is this a fundamentally different experience?

It can get very deep, even though it’s short. I call it ADDeep.

We have power users on the site who have posted ten even twenty thousand six-word memoirs. They post eight to ten times a day almost like a Facebook status. Some are silly, but some are profound.

We have lots of six-word memoirs about the most emotional times in people’s lives — the birth of a child or a battle with cancer. If you go to the site as a major event is unfolding — like a mass shooting, a plane lands on the Hudson, or the death of someone like John Glenn — people share their thoughts and reflections. And because we aren’t as big as a Twitter or Facebook, people really have a sense that in our smaller community they are being heard.

When Bowie died? Whoa. Our users were able to become part of that narrative. The constraint fuels creativity.

“SOME COUPLES SHARE EVERYTHING. SOME DON’T.”

My wife and I met in journalism school, which means she’s either the first person to read something I’m writing—or the last. What’s it like having two writers under the same roof? How did your Six-Word experience influence your wife’s memoir?

My wife, Piper Kerman, wrote the memoir Orange is the New Black based on her own experience serving 13 months in federal prison for a crime she committed a long time ago. So, we’re both in the storytelling business. She teaches writing in two state prisons outside of Columbus, Marion and Marysville.

She is a reluctant memoirist, and a more quiet and introverted person than I am. I’m much more unfiltered than she is, which isn’t a criticism. It’s just a style and approach. Many people have a memoir inside them, but she was never like, “I want to write a book about my life.”

Everyone has an interesting story if you poke around, but when she got out of prison, people were curious. And when she went into prison, there were really no books for women. They were all about the experiences of men. People were hungry to hear about it and she felt a deep obligation to tell not just her story, but the stories of the other women as well — who they are, where they came from, and what happens to them when they get out.

I encouraged her to write it, and knew she was a great writer from living with her all those years. We have a friend who used to joke long before Piper went to prison and wrote the book that she was the better writer in the house because she would edit things I wrote and she was so good. But after getting her letters while she was in prison, it was undeniable. She’s absolutely the better writer.

“IS STORYTELLING A CALLING, OR A CURSE?”

Columbus is known a test market for all sorts of products, and we’re proud of it. How did Columbus come to be the Six in the City prototype— a city of storytellers?

What I learned from Six-Word Memoirs is that I went from journalist, which I liked a lot, to someone who builds community through storytelling, which I love.

People sometimes ask if I ever get bored with Six Words. But it’s really just a tool to get people to open up about themselves. If I’m working with a Mosaic class, or Columbus School for Girls, or Independents’ Day with pieces of paper and a clothesline barking for Sixes, and that’s never boring.

Giving people agency over their lives, to be the protagonist in their own stories is empowering. I once had a teenage girl get up on stage at the Harmony Project and say, “Yes, I’m pregnant, but I’m graduating.” And they clapped. She was owning her story.

Six in the City tells the story of an entire community. I had initial meetings in New York, talked to folks with the city, and I’d get a call back three months later.

I didn’t intend to launch Six in the City in Columbus. But when I got here and looked around, and started to understand the community vibe, everyone I talked to in Columbus said yes.

Do you want to have a meeting? “Yes.” Do you want to move forward? “Yes.” Columbus is a “Yes” city. If you have an idea, and you’re willing to work hard, Columbus will help you make it happen — the city, the people, the community, everyone.

We came here two times before we decided to move here. There was an event at the Jewish Community Center, and we went out to dinner afterwards. We didn’t have any family ties or friends here. We came back one more time and my wife and I decided right then, “Let’s do this. Let’s get a house”. I was tired of that Brooklyn apartment anyway. It wasn’t a difficult decision. Now, I’m an ambassador for Columbus. ▩

Satire, Super-Sized

Originally published in the December 2016 issue of (614) Magazine


In case you missed it, Columbus just became home to the world’s most subversive sandwich.

If Morgan Spurlock hangs up his handlebar mustache tomorrow, he’ll forever be famous as the guy whose one-month stunt eating nothing but McDonald’s fare changed the way Americans think about fast food — or, maybe not. By now, the gag is out of the bag. But the last laugh may still be on us. Holy Chicken, his latest venture, launched its first location as a four-day pop-up amid apparently oblivious fanfare. Unlike rival restaurants, it advertised antibiotic-free, hormone-free, cage-free fowl with unprecedented honesty.

“We’re going to bring total transparency to a lying industry,” said Spurlock, between a call-and-response chorus of patrons packed before his poultry pulpit. “HOLY CHICKEN,” he chanted—and his faithful flock followed.

If Andy Kaufman had opened a fast food franchise, it would be difficult to distinguish it from Holy Chicken. As far as the simple menu went, it seems like a genuine attempt to offer a better bird for a premium price. But, you’re also being served some super-sized sarcasm on an artisan bun, with a side of social satire.

The signs were everywhere.

No, really — the signs were all over the joint.

From on-the-nose aphorisms about the persuasive psychology of “healthy and relaxed” green and “enthusiastic and energetic” orange to a snarky “SEE YOU SOON” on the exit with the disclaimer, “Most doctors and nutritionists would recommend that you eat Holy Chicken only once or twice a month to maintain a balanced diet. But that probably won’t stop you, will it?”

“Americans make bad choices all the time,” said the straight-faced Spurlock, noting the ominous warnings in friendly fonts occupying the walls. Spurlock’s old-fashioned ribbon-cutting ceremony included representatives from Experience Columbus and the Chamber of Commerce, as well as a proclamation from the State of Ohio — presented against a backdrop of folksy, farm-to-table, illustrated insights titled “Know Your Chicken,” “Know Your Farmer,” and “Know Your Vertically Integrated Corporate Supply Chain.”

I have to admit, the sandwich was pretty tasty — despite the dire and discouraging décor. I went for the “Grilled Crispy Chicken Sandwich” topped with maple mustard, pickles, and homemade slaw. The side of “Crunchy Greens” was actually batter-dipped green beans. Both were fried.

“We don’t use the F-word,” Spurlock quietly confessed. “People like ‘crispy’ and ‘crunchy’ food.”

That’s not much consolation if you worry about what you eat. Americans rarely read the fine print, and apparently they aren’t fans of larger-than-life print either. The chicken sandwich, their only entrée, weighed in at 860 calories. Add those fried green beans at 190 calories, and your total matched that of a Big Mac and large fries from Spurlock’s former nemesis.

If that realization wasn’t enough to offset your appetite, the annotated, meticulously staged mural of the same sandwich should have. Photoshop trickery is always a given — but using KY in the coleslaw to create a more marketable image could leave you feeling queasy.

The genius: Spurlock wasn’t hiding any of this, making the distinction between sincerity and chicanery difficult to tell, hard to sell, and harder to swallow. Though he described the use of real wood surfaces to “give you thoughts of nature, trees, cute little farms with barns, and other healthy stuff” — a discrete lean over the counter into the kitchen revealed an employee literally using a brush and stencil to paint charcoal stripes on the grilled chicken.

Holy Chicken claimed its food was “too good to be true.” Whether the hundreds who lined up were willingly duped, blissfully ignorant, or just playing along was an even-money bet. The hype was real, even if some weren’t sure the restaurant was. Perhaps that was the point, along with gathering a lot of footage for some future film or television endeavor. Americans care less about antibiotics, hormones, and cages than they do feeling good about themselves.

They want guilt-free fast food — disclosures be damned.

But in the days that followed, social media cried foul and the local press was unimpressed. Spurlock’s epic editorial on deceptive practices had some screaming the sky was falling without considering the moral of the story.

Columbus was invited to be in on the joke, not the butt of it. As America’s test market, we’ve seen our share of half-baked ideas. This was not one of them. There was no subterfuge. Holy Chicken sold sandwiches, not snake oil. Better yet, they sold them at a price we should expect to pay for better chicken and better wages. That chicken was all that was advertised—free from the ambiguous labels we presume are bad, but have lots of legal leeway. And those employees were paid $15 an hour, far better than Spurlock himself made during his last gig in Columbus.

The premiere episode of his groundbreaking television series, 30 Days, followed the filmmaker through the struggles of minimum wage employment. It’s no coincidence he returned here to unveil his latest project, even if some were swept up in the same cognitive dissonance behind the foods we choose everyday. Of all of the premium modifiers used to describe his chicken, “healthy” was never one of them. Presuming the rest somehow made it so was exactly the linguistic leap the fast food industry expects us to make, and any backlash instead of hilarity that ensues proved it.

Did Holy Chicken disclose in unapologetic fashion exactly what they were serving? Were you initially elated that a healthier restaurant was finally meeting customer demands, only to have your hopes dashed again? Were the sandwiches they served likely no better than those sold by nearly every fellow fast food chain? Yes? Then shut the cluck up.

Spurlock didn’t reduce cultural commentary to a crappy carnival ride. He elevated it to an innovative, interactive experience. Holy Chicken wasn’t a hoax — it was a catered performance art exhibition. Luckily, most folks were all too honored to eat it up. ▩

Super Size Me 2: Holy Chicken! is now available to stream on YouTube, Amazon Prime, and iTunes.

Grilled Cheese for Grownups

Originally published in the Winter 2015 issue of Stock & Barrel


This city’s sandwich scene seldom sides with nostalgia. From experimental to reckless, Columbus “carbovores” reward few endeavors more than a radical idea between two pieces of bread.

But simple pleasures aren’t easily outgrown.

“It’s the most comfortable of comfort foods,” mused Ian Hummel — prolific singer/songwriter, Shazzbots skipper, and grilled cheese guru. (The local music loyal may recall Hummel’s off-beat ballad, “An Ode to Cheese.”)

“As a grown up, of sorts, I have come to appreciate the enhancements made to the world’s greatest sandwich,” Hummel confessed, rattling off the range of cheeses now available on the simple staple. “Meat eaters and vegetarians love ’em — it’s still the perfect food.”

Affirming its enduring charm, The Shazzbots television pilot even used sandwich making as a metaphor for childhood creativity and self-expression. Much like its most notable ingredient, our affection for grilled cheese often improves with age.

Despite the rise of restaurant chains and food trucks redefining the delicate blend of crispy and gooey, there are equally sophisticated takes found off the radar. Paired with the right cup of soup, these grilled cheese for grownups will surely warm your soul and win over your inner child.

Katzinger’s
475 S Third Street | katzingers.com

Finding a new favorite at this German Village landmark is quite the pickle, and not the kind found in their barrels of garlics and dills. Next time, skip the New York standards in favor of Franklin’s Kibbetz — housemade mozzarella and pesto with tomato on grilled sourdough. A cup of intense chicken soup with egg noodles or matzo balls is customary, but Seth’s daily special may also include tomato, red onion, or fresh greens.

Bodega
1044 N High Street | columbusbodega.com

This neighborhood haunt is nearly legendary for their $1 grilled cheese during Monday night happy hours. But don’t let that low price dissuade you from going any day. The three-cheese pleaser features cheddar, Swiss and Monterey Jack—then makes a deft departure by adding tomato aioli and zesty arugula. Jalapeños add extra punch and the seasonal soup of the day round out the palate. If you’re lucky, it will be a ladle of lentil.

Philco Bar + Diner
747 N High Street | philcodiner.com

Eclectic ingredients conspire to create a remarkable balance of smooth, savory, salty, and sweet at this sleek spot in the Short North. Ohio cheddar, Havarti and bacon contrast the tart taste of diced Granny Smith apples, served on slabs of Texas toast. Add a cup of turkey, chorizo and white bean chili with the peppery bite of matchstick radish, chopped cilantro and a dollop of sour cream on top for a mix of Midwest meets Southwest.

101 Beer Kitchen
397 Stoneridge Lane and 7509 Sawmill Place | 101beerkitchen.com

Suburban watering holes aren’t the kind of places you expect to take craft beer and comfort food so seriously. But that’s exactly where you’ll find creamy brie and pears on crusty sourdough with fig and honey jam served with a side of crisp, crimson beet chips. Butternut squash soup with spicy pumpkin seeds, duck confit, and crème fraîche will make you wonder what else you’ve been missing away from downtown and outside 270. ▩

Hog Heaven

Originally published in the Winter 2015 issue of Stock & Barrel

It’s hard to take celebrity chefs seriously — the rub is right there in the title.

They seem to be celebrities first, chefs as an afterthought. For every humble hero grinding it out in the kitchen, there’s a loudmouth huckster with frosted tips and Charlie Sheen’s wardrobe willing to slap his signature schlock on anything for a quick buck.

James Anderson of Ray Ray’s Hog Pit is the genuine article, not some farm-to-fork phony made of marketing flim-flam.

Crouched in his Carhartts, clanging on the drain of a hog trough, Anderson isn’t exactly the foreboding figure of local legend you might expect. I’d followed the waft of smoked meat up the hill to the barn of his Granville farm unnoticed. When I called out his name, he turned and stood with an outreached hand, his weathered features and unruly beard far from the face I first met more than a decade ago.

We’d originally met as work-a-day pixel pushers, each hungry for something more. Anderson was plying his photography background at a local design studio whose owner happened to hold a small stake in my long-since-defunct tech startup.

Those were the salad days and we looked the part, complete with button-down collars and khaki pants — back when we were both better acquainted with the business end of a razor. While I was proselytizing the inevitable pervasiveness of wireless Internet access, he was apparently plotting to put Columbus on the map as a credible barbecue destination.

Though neither of us got rich from our foresight, it’s safe to say finding reliable Wi-Fi in any given city is now a whole lot easier than finding reliable barbecue. Perhaps that’s the cornerstone of Ray Ray’s defiant allure in a digital age when damned near everything is a commodity. While the rest of the world is getting faster and more complicated, Anderson’s approach is still slow and simple.

“My dad was a barbecue guy his whole life. He died around the time I started cooking professionally,” Anderson explained. “I never got to cook with him, but I was always inspired by him. That’s actually what motivated me to pursue barbecue.”

Even those who rave about Ray Ray’s must admit Anderson is an enigma of culinary contradiction. The endgame of many food trucks is opening a restaurant. Anderson already did that — three times in fact — and hated it so much, he went back to the curb.

“We had decent sales, but the overhead was ridiculous — it was brutal. It was hell,” he said.

Before there was Ray Ray’s Hog Pit there was Smackie’s Smokehouse — a barbecue joint with the ease of Chipotle and an emphasis on America’s most notable comfort food. It also happened to be spitting distance from my neighborhood on the Northeast side. On a good day, if the wind blew just right, I could open my windows and fill the whole house with the smell of brisket. True story.

The build-out on the first Smackie’s near New Albany was costly. The rehabbed Bob Evans on Cleveland Avenue that followed was bigger, but no better. The strip mall spot that followed spelled the end. Meat isn’t the only thing that sometimes gets burned in the barbecue business.

“It was a bitter moment,” Anderson said. “People who only know Ray Ray’s and stand in line every week think I’ve always been this huge success, but I’ve tasted failure.”

From a sales standpoint, Smackie’s was hardly a failure — just painful, unintended market research. Luckily, Anderson refused to dwell on the downsides of running a traditional restaurant and refocused on what he loved most with a “one man, one smoker” concept at the intersection of Pacemont and High in Clintonville.

“With a food truck, there’s none of the brick-and-mortar bullshit,” Anderson said. “It was profitable from day one. By week two, I couldn’t do it all. ‘One man, one smoker’ lasted about one week.”

Anderson kept the food truck lean, and only the best sellers made the cut. With two hands, you can both count and eat everything he sells. Ray Ray’s really doesn’t have much of a menu, more of an abbreviated itinerary of essential eating.

Restaurants are also run on metrics, another difference in Ray Ray’s intuitive operation. Like his ribs, he relies on the expertise only afforded by experience. If everything sells out every day, he’s obviously doing it right. James Anderson is the Steve Jobs of swine. Fuck focus groups — he already knows what you want, even if you don’t know it yet.

But none of that was why I stand in a barn shaking hands with a guy whose food truck was parked nearly an hour away…

Or maybe it’s exactly why.

The spot where I stood was the epicenter of Anderson’s next series of unlikely endeavors. He still has the sense of a photographer, and if the truck was his close-up, then the farm is his wide shot.

“The barn was built in 1920 and was an old hog barn originally,” Anderson explained, pointing to the rafters salvaged from wooden, Prohibition-era road signs still bearing slivers of logos and brightly colored paint. “Eventually we’ll turn this into a venue to do harvest dinners, convert this commercial kitchen into a licensed kitchen, and put seating up here in the loft.”

Anderson anticipates bringing in a mix of local chefs and local breweries and distilleries, and he has the connections and credibility to pull it off. His livestock was recently featured on the menu at New York’s acclaimed James Beard House, an invitation-only honor and a first for Columbus. Anderson joined local chef Bill Glover from Gallerie Bar & Bistro to prepare the six-course feast celebrating the best of Ohio. (Anderson and Glover’s kinship extends beyond the kitchen. The pair are also hunting partners.)

“I’m trying to get a butcher shop in the North Market. They’re really pushing for fresh vendors, so I’d love to be in by March,” noted Anderson. “It will be Anderson Farms Heritage Breed Hogs and a charcuterie called The Hungarian Butcher. I’ll be selling them raw, but on the other side we’ll be selling salumi—lonza, guanciale, year-and-a-half-old prosciutto, different kinds of bacon,” he explained. “There really isn’t much in the way of charcuterie in Columbus. The demand is very high, but the supply is very low.”

After admiring the smell of the 100 or so racks of ribs rotating on his smoldering meat carousel, we hopped in a glorified golf cart and headed over the hill of the 15-acre farm to see the heritage hogs Anderson has been quietly acquiring for more than a year.

“My goal is to raise the best pork in the world, so I brought in all of these heritage breeds to do that,” Anderson explained as we drove through the meadow bottom overlooking a dozen different breeds of hogs spread across the open field. “There are tons of variables. I spent a year studying breeds and their characteristics before I even started buying. Within the year, I’ll have enough to breed all that I need myself.”

If there is the slightest glint of celebrity to be found in Anderson, it’s in the way he talks about his hogs. He describes their countries of origin, coloring, and distinguishing attributes — you could easily mistake him for a well-heeled auto enthusiast detailing the pedigree of his prized collection of exotic cars.

But there is no vanity here. Anderson has managed to assemble a sustainable hog farm from scratch with the precision of a racing team. Each breed has its own diet: a blend of grazing and grain “mash” locally sourced from Watershed, Seventh Son, and Lineage — leftovers from the distilling and brewing process that Anderson puts back into the food chain.

“This furry one over here is probably my specialty. It’s a Mangalitsa. These are the ones I’ll be raising for The Hungarian Butcher,” Anderson said. “I’m one of the only farms to have them in the Midwest. The best pig for salumi is a Mangalitsa because it has a 5-inch back fat and a 5-inch belly fat. It’s very marbled — perfect for charcuterie.”

The hogs receive a cocktail of dairy, sheep and goat milk, which also comes from the farm. Anderson credits this diverse diet with yielding the balance of fat and flavor top chefs seek but rarely find. The farm also raises “Buckeye” chickens and Champagne d’Argent rabbits, which are so highly coveted a single chef currently buys his entire stock.

His next project pulls his past, present, and future together literally under one roof: Ray Ray’s BBQ School at Anderson Farms.

Imagine a baseball fantasy camp, but for barbecue — and at the end of the weekend, everyone gets to eat their gloves. But this is so much more than simply playing catch with a major league has-been.

“It will be a very intense and personal experience,” he explained. “They’ll learn to make rubs, the science behind ingredients, which wood, how to cut it, how much bark to leave, whether to soak it, how long to smoke it.”

“We’ll have some individual classes bringing in experts in various farm fields. Then there will be a three-day course — which is BBQ camp — where guests can stay in the farmhouse Friday, Saturday and Sunday,” he continued. “There will also be a masters course, which is eight five-hour classes over eight straight weeks offering an even deeper understanding of the fundamentals of barbecue.”

Anderson launched an online campaign through Barnraiser.com to cover the necessary renovations to the farmhouse and overall improvements to the property.

“It’s the only farm-based crowdfunding site, so it’s tough,” he admitted. “It’s not really a fundraiser. We were just trying to get people to pre-book their classes.” Anderson takes the struggle in stride, just as he always has. “We’re going to fund it through a small business loan instead. The details will be different, but the goal is the same.”

But none of this probably would have happened if not for Ray Ray’s success and the ability to pull back to the origins of barbecue — the farm itself.

“I’ve waited for the right staff, until I felt I had people who have barbecue culture in their blood,” he explained. “I’ve had lots of opportunities to grow Ray Ray’s — people in my face wanting me to add more trucks or open a restaurant again.

“I hand-select my employees from my customers. They’re passionate about barbecue,” Anderson revealed. “I can teach them the technical side, but I can’t teach them personality and character. And that’s why I hire them. Almost everyone I hire has zero food service experience.”

Derek Obuchowski is an exception, though his apprenticeship under Anderson at the smoker is an outdoor art far from formal kitchen craft. Alex Hagerty and Emma McCarron have also allowed Anderson to focus on the farm by managing operations at the food truck with the same steady hand that built the brand.

“The only advertising we have is word of mouth. I want to hand you something delicious and start a conversation,” Anderson said. Ray Ray’s doesn’t do discounts through Groupon or Living Social, fearing it would also undermine the brand. (Sorry, coupon carnivores.) He recalled once hearing about a Craigslist rental ad that listed among the amenities “walking distance to Ray Ray’s Hog Pit.” That’s one way to know you’ve found the right spot.

“For food trucks, no one has a lot of parking,” explained Anderson. “Ace of Cups has 47 parking spots, craft beer, and indoor seating. I love Clintonville, and Ray Ray’s will probably be there forever. But the farm is still home.”

“I’m a city kid newly planted in the country,” Anderson admitted. “With barbecue, there’s a lot of equipment — trailers, smokers, big stacks of wood. I looked like a hillbilly living in the middle of the city and it just didn’t work.

“Our house is at the farm. Our office is at the farm. Our kids work on the farm,” Anderson said with conviction. “Now, it’s all connected.” ▩

For more on hours, new limited-time menu items, or BBQ School, visit rayrayshogpit.com