Originally published in the February 2024 issue of COLUMBUS MONTHLY

The local sandwich scene has always been competitive, yet one of the fiercest rivalries isn’t even homegrown. Situated halfway between Chicago and Philadelphia, Columbus is the inevitable venue for a sandwich showdown. Though the thinly-sliced regional favorites may seem similar to the uninitiated, the two-fisted contenders are decidedly different.
Authentic Italian Beef has been a Chicago staple for more than a century, recently immortalized by the critically-acclaimed television series The Bear. Seasoned beef is slow-roasted then served “hot” with spicy giardiniera or “sweet” peppers on a crusty Turano roll. Order it “wet” for more essence with each bite, or “dipped” for a juicy delight.
The classic Philadelphia cheesesteak is as synonymous with the City of Brotherly Love as the Liberty Bell or Hall and Oates. Tender rib-eye piled high on a toasted Amoroso roll is obligatory. Provolone was the original cheese of choice, soon surpassed by the distinctive “whiz”. Grilled onions, peppers, and mushrooms are also acceptable additions.
Ordering either wrong could cause more than just momentary humiliation. Bungle your request at Johnnie’s in Elmwood Park and you’ll probably lose your street cred. Ask for one with Swiss at Pat’s in South Philly and it might cost you the White House.
Fortunately, Columbus has its share of both signature standards. Here are eight innovative eateries offering faithful interpretations with a Midwest twist.
Wario’s Beef and Pork | wariosbeefandpork614.com
111 W Nationwide Blvd, Columbus, OH 43215
4219 N High St, Columbus, OH 43214
Central Ohio’s most celebrated hole in the wall started serving East Coast inspired fare from an unassuming window near Nationwide Arena, and just expanded to bigger digs in Clintonville. Seeded semolina “sticks” are split and stuffed with shaved steak, grilled onions and house whiz. But you really want it “Wario’s Way” with added provolone and white American for a gooey hat trick. The sophisticated sandwich menu, hot or cold, deserves a return visit.
Marlow’s Cheesesteaks | marlowscheesesteaks.com
93 N High Street Gahanna, OH 43230
Philadelphia roots run deep at this classic steak shop. Keep it simple with sautéed onions covered in melted cheddar, or order it “Marlow’s Way” with provolone as well, plus mushrooms, hot peppers, mayo, and spicy mustard. Chicken, salmon, and even a veggie-only option round out the menu with a little booze as a bonus. A stint this past summer at Budd Dairy Hall helped boost their fanbase beyond Gahanna’s Creekside.
Hoagie City | order.toasttab.com/online/hoagie-city-hilliard
3870 Main St, Hilliard, OH 43026
Just south of Old Hilliard, this no-frills deli slings a legendary Italian sub. However, their cheesesteak is the real hero. Available plain with your choice of cheese, “wit” onions and peppers is the way to go. The half sandwich is easily shareable, but the whole is impossible to eat alone. The patriotic paint job and scrapple sold by the pound complete the motif. Grab a zesty pickle from the barrel to go.
Philgeddaboutit | philgeddaboutit.com
3998 Broadway, Grove City, OH 43123
361 E. Whittier St, Columbus, OH 43206
The clever portmanteau of colloquial lingo is a fitting name for elevated bar fare. Stick with the straightforward original or punch it up with the “Black Eye”, topped with bourbon caramelized onions, garlic mushrooms, and creamy bleu cheese. Tabasco slaw on the side is just the right balance of heat and sweet. The low-key kitchen at Town Center Pub in Grove City recently opened a second spot at Hey Hey Bar & Grill in German Village.
Loops | loopsgoodfood.com
1629 Northwest Blvd, Columbus, OH 43212
Renowned for a credible repertoire of Chicago street standards like Vienna beef dogs, Polish sausages, gyros, and falafel, overlooking their Italian beef is your loss. Succulent and stacked on a chewy roll, get one with hot or sweet giardiniera. Can’t decided between wet or dry? Try it with au jus on the side. Stop back by for a spanakopita, a savory Greek pie of fresh spinach, feta, and onion baked in flaky filo dough.
Tasty Dawg | trytastydawg.com
107 S High St, Columbus, OH 43215
Famous for jumbo franks served with everything from hearty chili and pimento cheese to pulled pork and avocado mash, it’s easy to miss the undercard. But don’t sleep on their Italian beef. A short walk from the Ohio Statehouse and Columbus Commons, it’s downtown’s only destination for the Gold Coast’s native sandwich. Next time, try a “Mac Bowl”, a base of elbow pasta and melted cheese with an intriguing array of original toppings.
Prost Beer & Wine Café | prostcafe.com
7354 E Main St, Reynoldsburg, OH 43068
A suburban biergarten isn’t the most obvious place to find a legit Italian Beef. But Prost on the far side of Reynoldsburg is an under the radar star. Among more than a dozen delectable sandwiches, the “Chi-Town Beef” earns high marks. Served solo or paired with any pint, the hot or mild giardiniera always hits the spot. Come back for the bruschetta bar, sharable flights of four featured charcuterie selections.
Windy City Eats | pamspopcorn.com
955 E Johnstown Rd, Columbus, OH 43230
The alter ego of Pam’s Popcorn offers more than the unlikely mix of cheese and caramel kernels. The hidden menu’s top billing belongs to the Italian Beef, “baptized” by default and topped with peppers, or the traditional medley of chopped, pickled veggies. You can even get one with “cheez”, if culinary blasphemy is your brand. Bavarian soft pretzels and bratwursts with sauerkraut echo the shared German history of Chicago and Columbus. ▩









