Author: J.R. McMillan (page 1 of 12)

Though best known as a freelance writer covering the culinary and cultural scenes, J.R. McMillan has also worked as a script consultant, featured columnist, photographer, publicist, and public radio producer.

From local beloved to nationally renowned brands, he applies his background in film and television to create compelling and persuasive narratives. His immersive research and in-depth interviews reveal the hidden story, and his insights and expertise are featured in multiple mainstream and industry publications reaching a wide range of audiences.

He is an alumnus of the W. Page Pitt School of Journalism and Mass Communications at Marshall University and lives in Columbus, Ohio.

December 1, 2024

Guy Fieri Goes Greek

Originally published in the December 2024 issue of COLUMBUS MONTHLY

Among the most dreaded calls any restaurant owner could receive is one requiring them to temporarily close—unless that call comes from Guy Fieri. When the host of Food Network’s Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives decides a beloved local joint deserves national attention, it’s worth celebrating.  

“You’re sworn to secrecy and you have to close for a couple of days. But we only close on Sundays and holidays,” said Yianni Chalkias, owner of King Gyros. Since opening more than three decades ago, the menu and dining room have expanded from fast causal fare to a full service Greek restaurant in the heart of Whitehall. “They said we’re just the kind of place they look for, where everything is made from scratch. So I made an exception.”  

Born in Greece, Chalkias immigrated shortly before his tenth birthday and started working in his family’s restaurants until opening his own. Even during the pandemic and throughout extensive remodeling that transformed an abandoned Taco Bell into an immersive Acropolis-inspired destination for Mediterranean home cooking, King Gyros never closed—not one day, much less two. But Fieri’s praise doesn’t come easy, and Chalkias was eager and honored to join a growing fraternity of eponymous eateries including quintessential Columbus favorites like Tommy’s Diner, Katalina’s, and soon Wario’s Beef and Pork.  

“Guy is looking for something special that nowhere else has. We have 26 homemade desserts. We grow our own herbs and serve dishes that would cost twice as much at other restaurants,” Chalkias said. “When I told them we grind our own lamb, they asked me to send some pictures of the kitchen. That’s when I knew they were really interested.”  

Born in Columbus and raised in California, Fieri discovered his love of food early as well. Also at age 10, he turned his bicycle into a mobile soft pretzel business and earned enough by age 16 to travel to France to improve his kitchen prowess. Forty seasons and more than a thousand underrated restaurants later, Fieri’s fondness for his hometown isn’t so secret. An online petition to rename Ohio’s capital city “Flavortown” quickly garnered 130,000 signatures back in 2020. The food and music festival of the same name, originally scheduled to coincide with the opening of Guy Fieri’s Trattoria at Eldorado Scioto Downs this past June, was moved to the back burner. However, his appetite for wholesome eats and local spots that serve them remains voracious.  

“We talked about recipes and ingredients in the weeks before the shoot, how different dishes might work,” Chalkias said. “On the final call they decided on Yiayia’s Dolmades and Pappous’ Lamb Chops. They’re named after my yiayia, which is Greek for grandma, and my pappous, which means grandpa. It was perfect.”  

The secrecy isn’t just to keep a lid on which restaurants will appear in upcoming episodes, though Fieri’s familiar red Camaro isn’t exactly inconspicuous and astute fans of the show sometimes spoil the surprise. Some dishes don’t make the cut, and some places don’t either. It was actually a fellow restauranteur who recommended King Gyros for the culinary itinerary. Closing for a couple days is more logistical. Just try squeezing lighting, sound, and camera crews into an already cramped kitchen as orders keep pile up. The second day of shooting is for select patrons to share their fondness for the food, recommendations and memories, and why the restaurant is such a beloved part of the community.  

“We started getting ready at 9AM on Friday, and Guy was here from around 2PM to 4PM. They even kept his car covered up except when they were shooting,” Chalkias said. “Everything was wrapped up around 5PM, so we opened up for the rest of the night. The second day of shooting was Sunday, when we’re closed anyway, so we didn’t have to close two days after all.”  

Though not part of the show, there’s a camaraderie among restauranteurs and sharing notes is also part of the experience. Fieri gave a nod to Chalkias for branching out into catering, a strategy Sweet Carrot embraced exclusively, stepping back from retail restaurants entirely despite rave reviews and an earlier appearance. He also acknowledged their similar age and the need to slow down and maybe take more days off, even if the restaurant is open.   

Three months later, during the annual Columbus Greek Festival, more than a hundred family, friends, and patrons gathered in the parking lot to watch the episode projected on a giant screen. Equal parts block party, backyard cookout, and class reunion, neighbors, long-time fans, and former staff dating back to the early days of the restaurant mixed and reminisced until a hush fell over the lines of lawn chairs and standing room only crowd. They listened intently as Chalkias carefully prepared and seared his signature lamb chops, and laughed along as Fieri chided repeatedly over the lemon dill sauce complementing the dolmades, or stuffed grape leaves, each artfully rolled by hand.  

A rousing dedication by Chalkias to his supporters and staff, past and present, drew cheers and more than a few tears soon remedied by a buffet of dishes featured on the show, as well as some of those legendary desserts. Weeks later, the limelight hasn’t seemed to fade with new patrons discovering King Gyros every day.  “

Following the episode, there was a 50 percent increase in business. Now it’s closer to 25 percent and we expect to stay busier in the months ahead,” Chalkias said acknowledging the long tail that tends to follow an appearance on Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives. “When people travel, they check old episodes to find unique places to eat. We think we’ll see that impact for years to come. But it’s an experience I’ll never forget.”  ▩

King Gyros is located at 400 S Hamilton Road. For menu and specials, visit kinggyros.com and follow on Instagram @kinggyrosgreek

Looking for more oF Guy Fieri’s favorite STOPS IN FLAVORTOWN?

No one visiting Columbus should leave hungry. Here are are additional Central Ohio spots from previous episodes of Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives.

Loops | loopsgoodfood.com 
Grandview
Season 27, Episode 8 
Chicago Italian Beef and the house-made All-Pork Gyro, The Titan  

Pierogi Mountain | pierogimountain.com 
Downtown 
Season 27, Episode 9 
Ethiopian-inspired Misir Wot Pierogi and Chicken Paprikash  

Ray Ray’s Hog Pit | rayrayshogpit.com 
Clintonville, Franklinton, Westerville, Granville, Linworth 
Season 27, Episode 9 
Mangalitsa Bratwurst Burger and Dry-Rub St. Louis Spare Ribs   

Sweet Carrot | sweetcarrot.com 
German Village
Season 27, Episode 10 
Beef Brisket Corn Cake and Sweet Chili Chicken Meatball Sandwich  

Ena’s Caribbean | enascaribbeankitchen.com
 South Linden 
Season 28, Episode 1 
Signature Spicy Jerk Chicken and Fried Escovitch Red Snapper  

Momo Ghar | northmarket.org
Downtown
Season 28, Episode 2 
Nepali-Tibetan Momo and Grilled Chicken, Potatoes, and Bodi  

Katalina’s | katalinas.com
 Harrison West, Clintonville, Bexley
 Season 40, Episode 2 
Dulce de Leche Pancake Balls and Everything but the Chicken Sink Sammy

High Bank Distillery | highbankco.com 
Grandview, Gahanna, Westerville 
Season 40, Episode 7 
Hot Honey Chicken and Biscuits and Barbacoa Nachos

Joya’s | eatatjoys.com
 Worthington 
Season 40, Episode 8 
Bacon and Chicken Fried Rice and Lamb Kati Roll

Wario’s Beef and Pork | wariosbeefandpork614.com
 Downtown, Clintonville 
Season 40, Episode 10
Ribeye Cheesesteak and Rosemary/Fennel Roasted Pork

February 1, 2024

Sandwich Showdown

Originally published in the February 2024 issue of COLUMBUS MONTHLY

The local sandwich scene has always been competitive, yet one of the fiercest rivalries isn’t even homegrown. Situated halfway between Chicago and Philadelphia, Columbus is the inevitable venue for a sandwich showdown. Though the thinly-sliced regional favorites may seem similar to the uninitiated, the two-fisted contenders are decidedly different.  

Authentic Italian Beef has been a Chicago staple for more than a century, recently immortalized by the critically-acclaimed television series The Bear. Seasoned beef is slow-roasted then served “hot” with spicy giardiniera or “sweet” peppers on a crusty Turano roll. Order it “wet” for more essence with each bite, or “dipped” for a juicy delight.

 The classic Philadelphia cheesesteak is as synonymous with the City of Brotherly Love as the Liberty Bell or Hall and Oates. Tender rib-eye piled high on a toasted Amoroso roll is obligatory. Provolone was the original cheese of choice, soon surpassed by the distinctive “whiz”. Grilled onions, peppers, and mushrooms are also acceptable additions.  

Ordering either wrong could cause more than just momentary humiliation. Bungle your request at Johnnie’s in Elmwood Park and you’ll probably lose your street cred. Ask for one with Swiss at Pat’s in South Philly and it might cost you the White House.
 
Fortunately, Columbus has its share of both signature standards. Here are eight innovative eateries offering faithful interpretations with a Midwest twist.  

Wario’s Beef and Pork | wariosbeefandpork614.com
 111 W Nationwide Blvd, Columbus, OH 43215
 4219 N High St, Columbus, OH 43214  

Central Ohio’s most celebrated hole in the wall started serving East Coast inspired fare from an unassuming window near Nationwide Arena, and just expanded to bigger digs in Clintonville. Seeded semolina “sticks” are split and stuffed with shaved steak, grilled onions and house whiz. But you really want it “Wario’s Way” with added provolone and white American for a gooey hat trick. The sophisticated sandwich menu, hot or cold, deserves a return visit.  

Marlow’s Cheesesteaks | marlowscheesesteaks.com 
93 N High Street Gahanna, OH 43230  

Philadelphia roots run deep at this classic steak shop. Keep it simple with sautéed onions covered in melted cheddar, or order it “Marlow’s Way” with provolone as well, plus mushrooms, hot peppers, mayo, and spicy mustard. Chicken, salmon, and even a veggie-only option round out the menu with a little booze as a bonus. A stint this past summer at Budd Dairy Hall helped boost their fanbase beyond Gahanna’s Creekside.  

Hoagie City | order.toasttab.com/online/hoagie-city-hilliard 
3870 Main St, Hilliard, OH 43026  

Just south of Old Hilliard, this no-frills deli slings a legendary Italian sub. However, their cheesesteak is the real hero. Available plain with your choice of cheese, “wit” onions and peppers is the way to go. The half sandwich is easily shareable, but the whole is impossible to eat alone. The patriotic paint job and scrapple sold by the pound complete the motif. Grab a zesty pickle from the barrel to go.  

Philgeddaboutit | philgeddaboutit.com 
3998 Broadway, Grove City, OH 43123
 361 E. Whittier St, Columbus, OH 43206  

The clever portmanteau of colloquial lingo is a fitting name for elevated bar fare. Stick with the straightforward original or punch it up with the “Black Eye”, topped with bourbon caramelized onions, garlic mushrooms, and creamy bleu cheese. Tabasco slaw on the side is just the right balance of heat and sweet. The low-key kitchen at Town Center Pub in Grove City recently opened a second spot at Hey Hey Bar & Grill in German Village.  

Loops | loopsgoodfood.com 
1629 Northwest Blvd, Columbus, OH 43212  

Renowned for a credible repertoire of Chicago street standards like Vienna beef dogs, Polish sausages, gyros, and falafel, overlooking their Italian beef is your loss. Succulent and stacked on a chewy roll, get one with hot or sweet giardiniera. Can’t decided between wet or dry? Try it with au jus on the side. Stop back by for a spanakopita, a savory Greek pie of fresh spinach, feta, and onion baked in flaky filo dough.  

Tasty Dawg | trytastydawg.com 
107 S High St, Columbus, OH 43215  

Famous for jumbo franks served with everything from hearty chili and pimento cheese to pulled pork and avocado mash, it’s easy to miss the undercard. But don’t sleep on their Italian beef. A short walk from the Ohio Statehouse and Columbus Commons, it’s downtown’s only destination for the Gold Coast’s native sandwich. Next time, try a “Mac Bowl”, a base of elbow pasta and melted cheese with an intriguing array of original toppings.  

Prost Beer & Wine Café | prostcafe.com 
7354 E Main St, Reynoldsburg, OH 43068  

A suburban biergarten isn’t the most obvious place to find a legit Italian Beef. But Prost on the far side of Reynoldsburg is an under the radar star. Among more than a dozen delectable sandwiches, the “Chi-Town Beef” earns high marks. Served solo or paired with any pint, the hot or mild giardiniera always hits the spot. Come back for the bruschetta bar, sharable flights of four featured charcuterie selections.  

Windy City Eats | pamspopcorn.com 
955 E Johnstown Rd, Columbus, OH 43230  

The alter ego of Pam’s Popcorn offers more than the unlikely mix of cheese and caramel kernels. The hidden menu’s top billing belongs to the Italian Beef, “baptized” by default and topped with peppers, or the traditional medley of chopped, pickled veggies. You can even get one with “cheez”, if culinary blasphemy is your brand. Bavarian soft pretzels and bratwursts with sauerkraut echo the shared German history of Chicago and Columbus. ▩

May 17, 2023

Hot Sauce Side Hustle

Originally published in the May 2023 issue of COLUMBUS MONTHLY

If you noticed the lights on later than expected at The Lox in early April and ran in to get out of the torrential rain saturating the Short North, you probably gave the sign on the door a double take. The familiar din and diners were somehow replaced as the sounds and aromas of Oaxaca filled the air and patrons eagerly lined up for tacos, despite a tornado watch.

Wait, wasn’t this a nationally-renowned bagel shop — like this morning?

Don’t worry, those perennial boiled and baked breakfast classics aren’t going anywhere, nor is Chef Silas Caeton. But his signature Sabo hot sauce is another story, as he prepares to expand the brand to additional retail locations and online sales.

“I love pop-ups, where creators are really passionate about putting something new out there in a limited format, whatever is in the forefront of their minds at the time,” Caeton says. “It’s a chance to create a menu that pairs with the hot sauce with my background in Mexican food.”

For Caeton, that personal history dates back long before his tenure as executive chef at Cosecha Cocina. His parents lived in Mexico for stretch, and his siblings were born there. Though not Mexican by heritage, it was a formative experience that influenced family meals and his relationship with recipes and authentic ingredients from an early age.

“Being at The Lox for the past four and a half years put all of that on the back burner to really focus on bagels, which has also been an awesome experience,” Caeton says. “But it’s a muscle I still want to utilize on the side, to experiment with those flavors and tap into those memories.”

Though Tabasco was his brand of choice growing up, he eventually ventured into more nuanced options. But the right balance of spice, texture, and consistency remained elusive. Cosecha Cocina was the impetus to start creating his own variations, and for those who already know Sabo, its presence at The Lox long preceded its recent availability in bottles.

“It’s more than the typical vinegar-based hot sauce, somewhere between a classic hot sauce and a barbecue sauce in thickness. It’s smoky and spicy, but not overwhelming. Hot sauce should complement the food, not overpower it,” Caeton says. “But there’s also a sweetness, not too much, and the Mexican oregano adds this beautiful floral note to it. It’s a very deep, savory sauce.”

When it comes to new menu items, tacos or otherwise, hot takes are often the best takes. Earlier pop-ups at The Lox have been highly popular, now ticketed events to help better predict exactly how popular in advance and are expected to become monthly events. Guests choose from among five refined interpretations—chicken “al pastor”, cochinita pibil, chorizo, sweet potato, and barbacoa—as well as a supporting cast of accompaniments including black bean tostadas to shrimp a la parilla. All are created to showcase Sabo, which is still billed as a hot sauce, but is surprisingly versatile in bringing complex flavors together, not just adding heat.“

Sabo is currently available at The Lox and Joyas. Our near-term goals is add local grocery stores and online sales with a long-term goal of larger chains,” Caeton says. “But it’s still exciting to see regular customers and guests bite into something new and realize the hot sauce that’s now in bottles is the same one they’ve had on their bagel sandwiches for years.” ▩

For dates of future pop-ups and retail details, visit sabosauce.com and follow them on Instagram @sabosauce

Seven Spicy, Ohio-Made Condiments You Need in Your Rotation

There are no rules when it comes to condiments and how to use them. Here are a few more signature sauces to tempt and test your palate from throughout Ohio — all with their own unique heat.

Cleveland Ketchup Company’s Ghost Pepper | clevelandketchup.com

Husband and wife duo Matt and Lisa McMonagle are new to the condiment scene, but hit the ground running five years ago with fours varieties of the sweet and savory standard. Dollop some of their hot ketchup on a Cuban Frita, the humble hamburger’s Caribbean cousin.

Mister Mustard and Mrs. Mustard | woebermustard.com

Carl Woeber started his Springfield business with a horse and buggy. More than a century later, this spicy couple still stands out. Forget about boiling that brisket. Cover your corned beef in hot or sweet mustard and brown sugar, wrap it in foil, then bake until it’s fork tender.

Sandwich Pal Smoky Horseradish Sauce | woebermustard.com

The raw root vegetable can be overwhelming. But the mix of mayo and mesquite makes this more recent offering from the fourth generation of the Woeber family an underground success. Squeeze a little into your mashed potatoes or add some heat to your deviled eggs.

CinSoy Chili Crisp | cinsoyfoods.com

Queen City Chef Sam Pellerito is all in when it comes to authentic Asian flavors. His creations are small batch and sublime, yet the combination of Szechuan peppercorns and cured garlic in his chili crisp is spice-forward. Drizzle a little on fried pork chops for an extra kick.

Double Comfort Fiery Chipotle Bourbon Sauce | doublecomfortfoods.com

There’s almost too much going on to fit into the distinctive flask-shaped bottle. But one nip and you’ll suspend your skepticism. Those who remember Mary Lyski’s restaurant are familiar with the Memphis influence. Give your chicken drummies a toss for a taste you’ll not soon forget.

Black Cap Hot Sauce | blackcaphotsauce.com

Chef Jack Moore is also shaking up the local hot sauce scene. Fermented and unfiltered, the probiotic first offering from his latest endeavor is only found in the cold case. Add a generous splash to your Bloody Mary for a hangover helper that will clear your head and your sinuses.

Check websites and social media for retail and online availability.

February 1, 2023

Culinary Knife Fight

Originally published in the February 2023 issue of COLUMBUS MONTHLY

It’s fight night, but it’s not Las Vegas or Atlantic City. The arena is Ray Ray’s in Granville and a pair of local chefs—Damian Ettish of Fetty’s Street Food and Justin Gottschalk of the eagerly awaited Harvest Pizzeria in Granville—are ready to throw down in front of a live audience and a trio of judges. After a brief tour of the kitchen and its provisions, the chefs ready their knives as the mystery ingredients are revealed and the competition begins. Each chef must prepare an appetizer and entrée using a whole chicken, cipollini onions, golden beets, apples and oranges. This is still Ray Ray’s, so smoke and fire are also essential elements.

Minutes into the matchup, any skepticism about chef showdowns being as choreographed as professional wrestling is immediately settled, as Gottschalk’s palm meets the business end of a mandoline. He bandages himself up and returns to the bout.

A little friendly competition, discerning judges, a raucous crowd, creative cuisine and, yes, a little blood: This is the new Ray Ray’s Supper Club.

Damian Ettish’s South African sweet curry with fried chicken

Though chef James Anderson, founder of Ray Ray’s Hog Pit, has an impressive collection of ink and accolades, his latest pivot in Granville from a sit-down “meat-and-three” restaurant, which closed last August, to an even more complex concept, one that combines a barbecue carryout with an experiential dining venue, was an unexpected departure.

Except, it really isn’t. That’s because this new endeavor is all about celebrating Ohio chefs and purveyors, just as Anderson always has dating back to his first food truck more than two decades ago in Clintonville. The new concept is also a product of the challenging time we’re in.

“The decision was driven by staffing. Running a restaurant six days requires a roster of 25,” Anderson says. “The drive-thru operating Thursday through Sunday only takes four. The supper club and events like the Chef Scrap are different than the daily grind. Staffing immediately became more sustainable, and we only select the highest caliber people.”

Chef Scrap judges Nicholas Dekker, chef Sebastian La Rocca and Three Tigers’ Scott Wilkins compare notes about the dishes.

Winnowing down the meat-and-three menu, which offered a slew of Southern-inspired sides, also became essential, with familiar Hog Pit favorites such as baby back ribs and collard greens making the final cut for the drive-thru. “The meat-and-three menu was way more robust, probably three times as large. You can’t sell food that needs to be served hot on a plate,” he says. “We had to pare it down to the items that traveled well.”

But the open-concept space was destined for something more. When the restaurant was first remodeled ahead of its opening in 2021, a wall separating the kitchen from the dining room was removed, Anderson says, making it an ideal exhibition venue for the eventual supper club, featuring multicourse chef’s tasting menus. However, it also made it the perfect arena for culinary competition.

“It’s very interactive compared to a traditional restaurant setting, much like a food truck but even more so. You’re seeing everything, sitting in the kitchen or at the counter for supper club,” Anderson says. “At the Chef Scrap, you have standing room right at the edge of the kitchen, so everyone has a complete view.”

Chef Damian Ettish of Fetty’s Street Food preps one of his dishes as the audience looks on during the Chef Scrap at Ray Ray’s Granville.

For those unfamiliar with Chef Scrap, imagine Iron Chef—the wildly popular Japanese television series in the ’90s that soon inspired a worldwide cult following and countless imitators. Renowned chefs known for their mastery of various cuisines are required to prepare sophisticated dishes from surprise ingredients in a limited amount of time for a panel of celebrity judges. The setup is deceptively simple—but the execution, done well, is absolutely enthralling entertainment.

Though fiercely protective of the Hog Pit brand, Anderson is unpretentious and conspicuously supportive of our local food scene. Through Chef Scrap and the supper club’s collaborative dinners, he steps out of the spotlight and invites colleagues and other local chefs to showcase their talents and businesses instead. The lineup of competitors past and pending isn’t a who’s who of barbecue. Rather, it’s a mix of established local chefs—like Jack Moore, formerly of Watershed Kitchen & Bar, and Dan “Hungarian Butcher” Varga—and emerging ones who share his humble culinary spirit, no matter their specialty.

The Chef Scrap, where extemporaneous fare is prepared under the intense attention of a captivated crowd, is a creative counterpoint to the refined multi-course dinners, and other events that round out Ray Ray’s Supper Club. During the December competition, while Gottschalk was bandaging his hand, emcee John Reese, owner of Black Radish Creamery, coyly tried to distract from the mishap by asking the judges to share their own kitchen scars and close calls. Chef Sebastian La Rocca of Fyr, Spark, and Stories on High rolled up his sleeve to show a string of stitches as fellow judges Scott Wilkins, co-owner and operator of Three Tigers Brewing and Mai Chau Kitchen, and Nicholas Dekker, of the eponymous Breakfast with Nick blog, visibly winced with the audience.

Though there are cameras and televisions positioned to help capture the action up close, unlike most cooking shows the head-to-head contest is also face-to-face. In true Columbus fashion, competitors were handing utensils back and forth throughout and watching the other’s preparations to prevent burning or boiling over.

Gottschalk was first to present his final dish, togarashi-spiced fried chicken with smoked beets atop an onion and apple slaw, finished with a black garlic vinaigrette. Ettish answered with a South African sweet curry with fried chicken thighs, smoked beets marinated in orange juice, then flambéed in local moonshine he’d quietly pinched from behind the bar.

It was close, but Ettish’s stealth ingredient and ingenuity appeared to pay off, earning him the win. Being a food truck owner who’s accustomed to tight kitchen quarters probably didn’t hurt. “On a food truck, there’s limited equipment and storage space,” Ettish says. “But neither of us knew who the judges were before tonight, so we couldn’t really appeal to their tastes. I just came in with the idea of Asian or Indian flavors, and whatever was in the mystery basket, because that’s what I know.”

Though Ray Ray’s recurring Chef Scrap is consistent with Anderson’s aspirations to highlight Central Ohio’s credible culinary chops, it’s also indicative of a larger trend in Columbus and beyond, where product and service converge to create an immersive experience, one that strengthens customer loyalty in an age of commodities.

“We’re looking for executive chefs in the Columbus area to compete, and as it grows, we’ll have chef versus chef and sous versus sous scraps,” he says, noting the audiences for the supper club, kitchen showdowns and drive-thru may be distinct, but the authenticity they crave is identical.

“Every chef comes in with what they know best, but it’s also a culinary playground,” Anderson says. “We’ve had a couple people from out of town apply, but I want to generate excitement about local competitions before opening it up to all of Ohio and additional states, so local chefs can compete against some of the best chefs in the country.” ▩

Ray’s Ray’s Supper Club is located at 1256 Columbus Road in Granville. For a complete list of upcoming events, visit rayrayssupperclub.com

August 10, 2021

Film Review: CODA

CODA generated both industry buzz and impossible expectations coming out of this year’s virtual Sundance Film Festival. An acronym for “child of deaf adults”, CODA is the first entry to ever win the Directing Award, Audience Award, and Grand Jury Prize — as well as a Special Jury Prize for Best Ensemble. Netflix and Amazon were both eager to acquire the rights to the film, but Apple Studios ultimately prevailed, premiering in theaters and on their signature streaming service August 13. It is the first theatrical release to have burned-in subtitles, making it accessible to hearing-impaired audiences everywhere without the need for special glasses and supporting projection technology.

Writer-director Siân Heder’s adaptation of the French film La Famille Bélier feels entirely original, despite some familiar themes for a coming-of-age story. Actress Emilia Jones plays Ruby, the only hearing member of a deaf family from the modest fishing town of Gloucester. Rising hours before dawn to work aboard her family’s tiny fishing trawler, she returns exhausted to endure the anxieties and drudgeries of high school. But what secretly stirs her soul is singing, a guilty pleasure she embraces, belting out Etta James with abandon into the vast ocean knowing no one can hear her.

Though this setup sounds like a cacophony of cliches and trite archetypes, Heder’s taut screenplay and directorial restraint somehow make CODA feel surprisingly fresh and inspired. The visual style, from the deft composition of each shot to the deliberate color palettes, highlight an artist’s attention to detail and reflect the quaint serenity of her native Massachusetts. Scenes that could easily descend into predictable dialogue between parent and child about following your heart instead create greater distance as familial obligations seem destined to undermine Ruby’s unappreciated gift. Though there are echoes of Running on Empty and Goodwill Hunting, the plot and its constituent parts never feel overly contrived or overtly derivative. Comparisons are somewhat inevitable, so if you’re going to have them anyway, likening a film to the work of Sidney Lumet or Gus Van Sant is high praise.

Performances from Marlee Matlin and Troy Kotsur as Ruby’s parents, and Daniel Durant as her older brother, are complex, clever, and captivating. With extended conversations exclusively in American Sign Language, audiences who feel overwhelmed following their facial expressions, animated gestures, and fast-paced subtitles will gain a small glimpse of the challenge of having to listen with only your eyes. In a particularly pivotal scene, Heder drops the audio out entirely, an immersive and emotional reveal that will likely leave audiences silent as well. Eugenio Derbez’s performance as Ruby’s choir teacher and mentor adds necessary levity, yet still amplifies the urgency of her looming choice to leave her family or abandon her dream.

However, Jones’ poignant portrayal is so subtle and sincere, it does what few performances from relative newcomers, or even seasoned screen veterans, tend to do. It genuinely suspends disbelief. Not only is her performance as the family’s de facto interpreter completely credible, her vocal abilities capture the raw joy of singing for someone who doesn’t realize she can really sing. Point of fact, Jones had to learn to sign and to sing for her role, making the authenticity of both all the more remarkable. But Ruby’s story is actually two stories, and that may be where CODA succeeds and shines most. Just as the awkward teen begins to consider a future beyond the deck of her family’s struggling fishing boat, the unlikely opportunity to audition for Berklee College of Music starts to slip away. Though she is in many ways isolated from her family by her ability to hear, she is simultaneously the sole connection they have to their community, one where they’ve only recently become less alienated after organizing a fishing co-op to help their neighbors fetch fair prices for their collective catch.

Without spoiling the ending, Ruby’s mutually exclusive worlds converge in a climatic closing song that illustrates why Apple was willing to write a check for $25 million without blinking, the highest amount ever paid for a Sundance film.

Though it’s a film rooted in universal family dynamics, there are some scenes that are probably too racy in subject matter for younger audiences. That said, CODA is sentimental without apologies, alternating between laughs and tears through a natural narrative that is thought-provoking without becoming preachy or political. Though this is likely the first exposure many will have to writer-director Siân Heder and actress Emilia Jones, it surely won’t be the last. ▩

CODA premieres in theaters and on Apple TV+ on August 13.

July 16, 2021

FILM REVIEW: ROADRUNNER

For those who may have missed mention of it earlier, Roadrunner, the controversial documentary on the life and death of Anthony Bourdain, releases today in theaters.

I received advanced access to the film, and it is as humbling as it is haunting. For someone whose reputation seemed to be built on brash and abrasive behavior, often for its own sake, his sincere love of food and travel was perhaps only rivaled by his reverence for strangers he met along the way and the cultures they were so willing to share.

Tony, as friends, family, and a fair number of fierce fans and dismissive critics knew him, remains an affable anti-hero — an unapologetic iconoclast who sucked the marrow out of life, sometimes literally.

The second act turn exploring his trip to the Congo narratively echoed Joseph Conrad’s Heart of Darkness, and visually mirrored Apocalypse Now — both among Bourdain’s favorite books and films. Much like Captain Willard, by the end of the documentary, he had become Colonel Kurtz.

No streaming date yet, but with CNN and HBO as producers, it will inevitably arrive on both platforms. Though Bourdain’s personality and the exotic backdrops deserve to be seen on the largest screen possible, there was admittedly a familiar comfort watching him again in his natural element. Sitting on my couch listening to him narrate his own posthumous biography was at times eerie, but Tony surely would have appreciated the irony.

The greatest challenge of this film was to balance the treatment of tragedy with respect while never minimizing it. Roadrunner accomplishes this task with unfiltered grace and honesty. The documentary was both a celebration and a confession, a chronicle of a life well-lived, but also a cautionary tale.

Bourdain was undeniably a tortured artist plagued by doubt, from failed personal and professional relationships to decades of self-destructive tendencies. However, the filmmakers never reduced him to that trite oversimplification. The film, culled from unflinching interviews, archival footage, and previously unseen outtakes from his candid career and unlikely celebrity, is immersive, illuminating, and heartbreaking. ▩

ROADRUNNER premieres in theaters on July 16.

October 29, 2020

Monster Mashup

Originally published in COLUMBUS ALIVE

Ask any band what frightens them most at the moment and it’s probably the prospect of empty stages with no end in sight. It even scares the members of Mummula, whose spooky shtick should be selling out gigs right now instead of lingering in the shadows.

“With all the uncertainty with the virus, it became a question beyond whether venues were going to be open and more about if they would be safe for the people we care about,” confessed Eric von Goosebump. “We don’t want to have our fans, friends, and family come see us and then get sick. I think we collectively decided let’s just play it safe and kind of tap out for a while.”

With all the grit of a garage band, the members of Mummula perform horror-inspired hits and credible covers dressed in matching black capes and bandaged heads. Loyal fans are already in on the gag, but the uninitiated are often left wondering whether these four guys are for real or just a ghoulish gimmick intended to hide a bunch of retro rock wannabes.

“People are genuinely surprised when they listen to us because we do a really nice punk show, but we have some garage rock elements in there as well as the surf instrumentals which really resonate when it all comes together,” explained Mark Hovthevampyre. “It’s like a full-package, variety, Scooby-Doo kind of show singing about monsters and aliens.”

Mummula is very real, and any doubts are settled as soon as they take the stage, hitting predictable power chords at a break-neck beat with catchy tunes like “My Baby’s Turnin’ into a Wolfman” and “Ed Wouldn’t”. Every song is unexpected, with members trading traditional instruments and vocals, and the occasional cameo from a keytar or kazoo. They even have their own fan club cleverly called The Wrap, keeping their growing legion of followers hip to their happenings throughout the Midwest, even as the pandemic persists.

From traditional club gigs to tiny charity performances, Mummula defies description or easy categorization. They’re surf meets snark, punk meets parody — as if Dick Dale founded Devo, or Joey Ramone and Weird Al conspired to create the genetic lovechild of Boris Karloff and Bela Lugosi.

Sadly, several annual events were cancelled or delayed indefinitely this year, like the local Fraternal Order of Moai’s Hula Hop and Point Pleasant, West Virginia’s Mothman Festival. In fact, Mummula’s last show before everything wound down was the Horror Prom at Spacebar, a Valentine’s Day “paranormal formal” for ghoulishly attired couples. It was an unintentionally ominous milestone just as the thin line between dark fantasy and harsh reality was about to blur.

As if their signature swag and pseudonyms don’t give it away, there’s obviously some deft design and branding expertise among the members, more than a subtle hint to their day gigs. Like most bands, moving music and merchandise online instead of at shows has become the standard, but they’re also spreading some goodwill as the chill of fall settles over Ohio. The band launched Mummula face masks earlier this year with all proceeds going to the United Way Worldwide’s COVID-19 Community Response and Recovery Fund, and an upcoming release to benefit the Movember Foundation next month builds on a prior EP to raise funds for the men’s health initiative.

“One gig that stands out for me was when we played HorrorHound Weekend several years ago. The crowd was huge. That was probably our biggest show so far, so it was kind of terrifying,” recalled El Santos. “But we were in our element, connecting with a bunch of horror fans, and we got to end the day with a lot of bigger bands in the horror punk scene.”

There is indeed a “horror punk scene”, but hardly obscure or recent. Though Mummula’s origin technically grew out a running monster mashup gag among the founding members during a road trip to a horror convention, the story actually goes back to the late 80s. The Canadian band Forbidden Dimension so captured their imagination, when Mummula eventually released their debut album in 2016, they asked the lead singer (and fellow graphic designer) to create the cover. The relationship came full circle when both groups shared the same stage in Nashville, illustrating the unique genre’s ability to connect fans and bands despite the distance and decades between them.

“Mummula hits all of these different communities — people who love surf, people who love punk, people who love monsters,” noted Kevbot 2. “I think that’s the thing I miss most, when you go to a show and you play for someone who hasn’t seen Mummula and they dig it, they’re surprised, and it completely makes their night.” ▩

For more on Mummula, visit them on Facebook and Bandcamp.

October 21, 2020

Hammer Time

Originally published in COLUMBUS ALIVE

Whether mending a hem or making your own pizza, the pandemic has pushed many to hone practical skills at home, often at an accelerated pace. Remember how quickly folks went from baking sourdough to brewing their own beer?

But there are still some skills you can’t learn on Youtube, those that require a steady hand that only comes with experience, especially with arts quickly fading away amid advancing technology. So if blacksmithing is on your bucket list, Adlai Stein is your mentor for all things metal.

“I used to go to the Met in New York with my grandfather and look at the arms and armor. I loved history, but was also fascinated by Tolkien and tales of King Arthur,” Stein recalled. “That sense of adventure was always in my head, and I joined a medieval reenactment group called the Society for Creative Anachronism. That’s what got me started in blacksmithing, and I’ve been doing it ever since.”

The artistry of ancient weapons that captivated him as a child inspired the hobby that eventually overtook his occupation as a paralegal. Despite taking off his tie for the last time and picking up a hammer, it still took Stein years beforehand to master the tools and techniques to become a full-time blacksmith.

Classes at the Idea Foundry in Franklinton soon outgrew the space, so Stein relocated his studio, Macabee Metals, to a larger shop off of Central Avenue and started the Central Ohio School of Metalwork. In addition to private lessons, workshops have opened to door to those whose interest may be tempered by apprehension. From sand casting to railroad spike knives, everyone leaves with skills and an individual experience you won’t find elsewhere — and a finished memento forged with their own hands.

“The maker movement has really changed the perception of products that are made by hand, and the people who make them,” he noted. “Things that used to be viewed as inferior unless they were mass-produced are now in demand. People want to know how things are made, and who makes them.”

Blacksmithing was already enjoying a bit of renaissance even before the COVID crisis. The History Channel series Forged in Fire has emerged from cable television curiosity to become a top-rated show entering its eighth season. Stein competed himself in the third season, and later helped prepare another local contestant for the unforeseen challenges of the competition. He’s also been a featured speaker at TEDxColumbus, sharing his journey from artist to educator.

“Blacksmiths are such a tight-knit community of people, we’ll really don’t compete against one another. We’re all doing our own thing,” Stein explained. “You may go to a knife show where you know everyone there making handmade knives, but they’re all unique. It’s kind of like going to the Arnold [Sports Festival]. You don’t get mad because someone enjoys the same thing you do. It’s a chance to learn from one another.”

When you’re swinging a hammer and moving hot metal from a forge to an anvil, social distancing is second nature instead of an afterthought. Slowly shaping an abstract slab of steel into a purposeful profile, quenching the blade, then grinding and polishing it to a refined finish takes about four hours. But much like Forged in Fire, it’s time that goes by faster than you think. Beneath the controlled chaos there’s a sense of Zen to the entire process, equal parts art and science. What may have started as a one-time indulgence might just become your new favorite past-time.

Though Stein admits the perception of blacksmithing, somewhat perpetuated by the show, is “40-year-old white guys with beards”, interest doesn’t fit a predictable mold any more than two knives turn out exactly the same. Exhibitions at events like Summer Jam West cast a wide net, and his students for private and group classes have leaned decidedly younger and more diverse over time, some of whom are considering becoming blacksmiths themselves someday.

“I have 16-year-old girls who come in and kick ass, and 40-year-old men who get tired and walk out. Some people think it’s all about strength, when it’s really about accuracy and patience,” revealed Stein. “It takes someone who is fearless to be able to look at 1800 degrees of metal to say, ‘I going to move this with a hammer.’ It’s a different kind of strength, the strength of character.” ▩

For more on the Central Ohio School of Metalwork, including upcoming workshops, visit cosommetalwork.com

August 17, 2020

Wonderful Wizard of Za

Originally published in COLUMBUS ALIVE

Columbus style pizza is an enduring enigma struggling for distinction among a dozen or so signature styles in Central Ohio, both celebrated and obscure. Thin crusts and square cuts are the obvious attributes, but maybe even that widely-accepted definition is dangerously narrow?

Spencer Saylor didn’t set out to cause a stir, but his homemade Sicilian pies did anyway. If you haven’t heard about Wizard of Za, you’re not alone. Saylor’s underground pizza empire has been inconspicuously operating for months exclusively on Instagram. But the improbable backstory of how a singer-songwriter from Youngstown ended up with a list of thousands of strangers waiting to try one of his handcrafted creations has been equally elusive.

“When I was a kid, I loved making pizza with my dad. He’d make the dough and I’d help put on the toppings,” he recalled. “You might go out for pizza on a Friday night or for someone’s birthday. But homemade pizza was just part of growing up in Youngstown.”

Music was also a family tradition. Saylor’s father played guitar, an instrument he likewise pickup at an early age, and his mother loved to sing. His grandmother was a music teacher and his grandfather used to tour with Johnny Cash. So when Saylor pursued songwriting, it wasn’t exactly non sequitur. But getting invited to open up for John Mayer caught even him by surprise.

“I used to sit in my bedroom listening to his songs since I was probably seven. I never thought in a million years we’d be sharing the same stage,” he confessed. “I hoped I might see him someday from the nosebleed seats of an arena. Opening for him was actually the first time I saw him perform.”

Like many professional musicians, Saylor also had a steady gig. Event planning afforded him the opportunity to travel a lot, which was the original inspiration for Wizard of Za, a visual diary of exceptional local pizza discovered along the way. But when the pandemic cancelled nearly everything in March, he started to hone another craft from home, reinventing the comfort food of his childhood and chronicling that journey on Instagram instead. Saylor pulled back the proverbial curtain and more than a few folks started to take notice.

“The more photos I’d post, the more people asked to try one of my pies. Once friends and family got their hands on it, they started posting to their Instagram accounts. The next thing I knew, I had people I didn’t know reaching out wanting one as well,” he explained. “I’d thought about maybe opening a restaurant two or three years from now. It’s hard to believe it’s only been four months.”

Time somehow moves slowly and quickly during a crisis. Though opening up a restaurant right now while so many are struggling to stay open may seem half-baked, Saylor’s savory side hustle isn’t. Buckeyes and Blue Jackets players whose seasons were sidelined were among his earliest unofficial endorsements, as were a surreal mix of celebrities who happened to pass through Columbus and heard rumors about this random guy slinging serious slices, from Chef Robert Irvine to John C. Reilly.

Their curiosity and enthusiasm are entirely deserved. The crunchy focaccia crust is covered in sesame seeds on the bottom instead of a dusting of corn meal, giving it an unexpected nuttiness. The spicy homemade sauce and cup-and-char Ezzo pepperoni are balanced by bubbly mozzarella and provolone in-between. Saylor then hits every pie with a drizzle of hot honey, grated Pecorino Romano, and a little fresh basil. His vodka sauce variation with fresh mozzarella he also makes himself is a culinary case study on how simple, yet sophisticated, pizza can be.

Is it the classic Columbus style pizza? Definitely not. But if that definition is distilled to something more essential — singular and authentic, steeped in family history, and a passion for people and the city they share, then yes. Wizard of Za is everything we love about pizza in Columbus.

The eminent opening of his still secret brick and mortar location in Clintonville will maintain the speakeasy mystique, absent any obvious signage outside. And though some may dismiss such a strategy as shrewd marketing or simply pretentious, it’s actually quite the opposite.

“I’m a one-man show, and the only reason there is a list is so I can keep up. But even with a restaurant and doing this full-time, I still want everyone to feel like they’ve discovered something new and unique,” Saylor noted. “Columbus has solid pizza all around. But I think Columbus has the power to make its mark like some of the better known pizza destinations in the country — like New Haven, New York, and Chicago. To be one of those places people come to Columbus to visit, that’s the kind of list I’d like to be on someday. ▩

To get in line for your own pie, and for the latest on his brick and mortar endeavor, follow the Wizard of Za on Instagram

August 1, 2020

The Hidden Cost of COVID

Originally published in the August 2020 issue of (614) Magazine

Restaurant margins have always been thin, and the costs are often hidden. Manufacturing has materials, restaurants have ingredients. Retail may have slow days, restaurants have expiration dates. Factories don’t slow down at the clap of thunder, and shopping malls sometimes see a boost. But if your business is built around a bustling patio, between staffing and spoilage, you might actually lose money when the weather turns. It rains on everyone eventually, some more than others. And when it comes to a pandemic, it’s been raining on restaurants for months and the skies seem to be getting darker by the day.

Katalina’s epitomizes everything folks love about the Columbus culinary scene. The original location turned an abandoned gas station into a heralded Harrison West haunt, and the eponymous café in Clintonville transformed a vintage fountain pen store into something worth writing home about. Quirky and clever, it’s a kitschy kitchen that elevates each dish into art you can eat, and Instagram posts from her patrons are practically as pervasive as her signature pancake balls.

“I think restaurants are one of the safest places to be right now because they are monitored more than almost any business,” noted owner Kathleen Day, whose seasonal seating offered essential expansion for both locations. “I take all of my feedback from people like the Ohio Restaurant Association, the CDC, and the Columbus Health Department. And what we know now is that outdoor seating is safer than indoor seating.”

Not unlike curbside pickup or the serendipity of a drive-thru window, patios have become even more coveted in recent months for those who have them, and a bureaucratic hurdle for those hoping to add or expand one. For now, Katalina’s is focusing on takeout and delivery, which wasn’t even an option until it likewise became essential. But delivery services come at a high cost beyond just the percent of sales and added packaging expense for food that typically leaves the kitchen on a plate instead of in a bag. Concerns about quality control and the brand implications are sincere for restaurateurs already struggling to retain staff and remain open.

“A national chain doesn’t have the same kind of social media following at the local level, so they’re probably not under as much scrutiny as I am, especially with the new cancel culture. I will be under a microscope immediately,” she explained. “The restaurant industry has one of the lowest profit margins already, and I have extraordinarily high food costs on purpose because I use local, organic, and ethical food. If people want to go back to an era where we only have chain restaurants and large conglomerates, they may see that soon.”

Though the capital city is home to a number of notable national names, there is still a fierce loyalty to local businesses and brands. However, the fear of blowback is just as real as the added operating expense and emotional toll of potentially watching a lifetime of work slowly slip away over a matter of months. There are beloved local restaurants that simply will not survive, and for those that do, that price is also largely hidden.

“These are new costs for a lot of restaurants—take-out containers, paper menus, delivery services. They had to invest in new signage and if you’ve been inside restaurants lately, you’ve seen the decals on the floor and new signs. Stand Here. Don’t Go There,” explained John Barker, president and CEO of the Ohio Restaurant Association. “Availability of gloves and face coverings add even more pressure. Hand sanitizer is up to around $39 a gallon, which is triple what it would have been a year ago.”

The Ohio Restaurant Association has emerged as a lifeline, offering advocacy informed by a century of insight among its membership. (Really, the organization was founded in 1920.) The present pandemic has upended the industry more fundamentally than any crisis or cultural shift since prohibition.

Among their most visible initiatives are the Ohio Restaurant Promise, a pledge posted for patrons outlining steps taken to ensure their safety, and their Employee Relief Fund, offering financial assistance to those struggling during unprecedented times. From navigating complex government programs to securing necessary cleaning supplies, among the most pressing concerns facing restaurants are the specialized sanitizing procedures required after a positive case of COVID-19 is confirmed among guests or staff. The cost of cleaning, depending on the size of the restaurant, is typically several thousand dollars, and exceeds the standard expected of most businesses.

“We’re not seeing grocery stores closing down, or hardware stores closing down. In many cases a deep cleaning by the restaurant is all that’s required,” he noted. “But we have seen restaurants close, out of an abundance of caution, and we help them understand their responsibilities and to follow health department guidelines. Safety is always our first concern.”

Trust comes from transparency, and businesses like Stauf’s, Barcelona, and Katalina’s have set a new standard for being entirely open with employees and their clientele about interruptions, added procedures, and the extra steps they’re taking to continue serving customers safely, despite the current crisis.

“Katalina’s is Katalina’s because I have more long-term employees than the average restaurant, and I have the most amazing customers in the world. So right now, I’m going to do takeout and delivery,” Day noted, but confessed the future remains uncertain for her restaurant and the entire industry. “My customers are so loyal, they will sit out on my patio in the snow, and it amazes me and inspires my employees every time. But whether you have a patio or not, for small restaurants struggling to survive, it’s going to be a really rough winter.” ▩

For the latest on Katalina’s, follow them social media and at katalinas.com
For more on the Ohio Restaurant Association, the Ohio Restaurant Promise, and their Employee Relief Fund, visit ohiorestaurant.org