Originally published in the March 2020 issue of (614) Magazine
When planning any getaway, the most crucial question that often goes unasked is what do you hope to escape, or discover? Cherry Valley Hotel may offer the answers to both.
With 200 well-appointed rooms, purposefully preserved accents, distinct dining options, an on-site day spa, and the industry’s only enclosed arboretum in the country, many may ask why they haven’t heard of Cherry Valley Hotel before. That’s because Newark’s newest hotel is nearly three decades old.
“This renovation was top to bottom, down to the studs and the cement. Everything came out except the stone and the wood that were signature parts of Cherry Valley,” explained Patrick Beaver, director of sales and marketing, and an Ohio State grad who recently returned to the area to oversee the transformation. “We considered staying open and doing it in phases, but there was just too much that needed attention. ”
Originally intended as a retreat center and training facility, the former Cherry Valley Lodge was actually owned and operated by State Farm Insurance. (No kidding.) Subsequent acquisition and renovation added an onsite waterpark many may recall named CoCo Key to the amenities, an endeavor that eventually led to diminishing returns and a downward spiral in revenue that required a radical reinvention.
Unlike most destination accomodations in its class, Cherry Valley Hotel has both local owners and national owners, a team of insight and investment that decided to close the struggling lodge and waterpark for the better part of a year. It was a $20 million decision that carried inherent risks. Hotels that close entirely for such extensive updates often fail to reopen at all.
“Once the lodge shifted from a group hotel to a leisure hotel, it hurt our event business and most of the money coming from the waterpark was going back into maintaining the waterpark — but not the lodge,” Beaver revealed. “We changed our name from ‘Lodge’ to ‘Hotel’ to set ourselves apart from Mohican or Deer Creek. It was an early concept decision. Kalahari and Great Wolf Lodge do waterparks well, but we wanted to distinguish ourselves from being either a lodge or a waterpark. We think we’ve found our niche.”
That niche is hardly narrow. With 60,000 square-feet of event and conference space, Cherry Valley Hotel offers a more affordable alternative for trade shows, yet a scale that still accommodates wedding parties of any size, particularly those that exceed that capacity of typical venues. But perhaps the most underappreciated draw for guests is the serenity of the surroundings, a stark contrast from the bustle of Columbus. The original building was intentionally designed as an octagon, mimicking the geometry of the nearby earthworks built by the indigenous Hopewell people centuries ago. The botanical gardens and lake at the center still evoke fond memories among couples and families who return for reunions, or just a weekend away to unwind or reconnect.
But unlike many hotel dining options that tend to be overpriced and underwhelming, Cherry Valley Hotel offers a menu and atmosphere that rival the best the hospitality industry has to offer with a focus on elevated fare that isn’t intimidating, and options to accommodate any preference or palate.
“Everything on our menu is made from scratch, and we feature local ingredients whenever possible. We look at trends, but aren’t afraid to put our own twist on them,” noted Robert Olinger, executive chef and Newark native. “Our cauliflower steaks are seasoned and coated in Greek-style yogurt made in Ohio, then we slow roast them to just the right char before slicing them.”
The lodge turned hotel technically operates four distinct dining destinations. Craftsman Kitchen & Terrace offers a classic yet contemporary restaurant complemented by the Lobby Bar’s more casual setting for creative cocktails. O&E Taphouse features both craft drafts and bottled beers with its own menu, while the Granville Pantry offers coffee and light breakfast to go or on their patio. But the first three are where you’ll find the unexpected.
“I don’t want to be known for our burgers, but we use five cuts of Ohio beef ground in-house daily,” Olinger confessed, noting their burgers are often a frequent foray for first-time diners. Plant-forward patrons will likewise swoon over their burgers made from a blend of roasted peas, mushrooms, beets, and chilis. “Our fish and chips are almost as popular. We use Lake Erie walleye, beer-battered with lime zest, and serve it with baton fries we steam and chill before they’re sliced and fried. It’s the most light and delicate fry you’ll ever find.”
Utility and versatility are the measure of any credible kitchen, and Cherry Valley Hotel epitomizes both. The same fontina and white cheddar sauce you’ll find drizzled on the cottage fries with kimchi is also in the kids mac and cheese, the chorizo fondue, as well as the lobster cavatelli. The kitchen presses each pasta shell by hand, and there’s a rhythm to doing it right. Oligner insists the secret is rolling them to classical music—and if his offering is evidence, he may be right.
Whether it’s the wild boar sliders, cut with just enough pork butt to tame the gaminess, topped with crunchy daikon slaw with a hint of watermelon, or the perfectly pungent French onion soup, simmered low and slow for 48 hours with stout, sourdough, and Gruyère in humble harmony, there is nothing ordinary anywhere on the menu. Even their chicken wings are inspired, serving the whole wing three ways: Newark hot, country rub, or “buckeye” style with a dark barbecue and tahini sauce sprinkled with black sesame that somehow evokes the intersection of chocolate and peanut butter. Weird, but wonderful.
“Our most hands-on dish is our ancient grain pilaf, with toasted farro, quinoa, grilled artichokes, feta, olives, and a lemon curd. You spoon it into butter lettuce cups, like a taco,” Olinger explained matter-of-factly, despite the dish’s deceptive complexity. “The Black Forest chocolate cheesecake is served upside down, crust on top, with a cherry reduction and cherry ‘pearls’—like little cherry caviar.”
It‘s this keen attention to detail and daring variation that shows in every dish, and why Cherry Valley Hotel invites neighbors to dine and embibe with them at any of their eateries, even if you don’t spend the night. But with culinary attractions like “Truffle Week” or making your own s’mores by the fire in the arboretum from house-made marshmallows folded with goat cheese covered in ganache, you may come for lunch or dinner often enough to consider booking a weekend away, though still close to home.
“If you check in on Friday, you could have dinner at the taphouse to start off, then grab and go Saturday morning. You could have lunch in the Craftsman, dinner in the Lobby Bar in the evening, and then room service for breakfast on Sunday,” Beaver chidded. “You could stay the whole weekend and never eat at the same place twice. ▩
For more on Cherry Valley Hotel, including their menu and amenities, visit cherryvalleyhotel.com
